One of the best ways to explore and discover the region of Duhallow is to follow the Duhallow Trail. This gives an insight into rural life in Duhallow - a place to imbibe the past together with modern living. The main route of approx 100 miles is well signposted and is suited to the motorist cyclist and walker.
Thousands of years of social activity are evident from the historical and archaelogical sites, ring forts, stone circles and prehistoric graves that dot the countryside. Local folklore and heritage sites allows plenty of opportunity for a refreshing stop.
The western end of Duhallow is known as Sliabh Luachra - the "Rushy Mountain". It is not a clearly defined geographical area but rather a place known for its treasures of poetry, music, song and dance. It has its own brand of traditional Irish Music. Many of the great musicians who had lived here have gone to rest but they have left a rich and beautiful tradition in the Sliabh Luachra district.
We begin the trail in the north east corner of the region:
Freemount
Freemount village is well known for having a strong tradition in music and culture. The old school built over 140 years ago has been reconstructed as a heritage centre where traditions of the area will be preserved. TOP
Tullylease
The next stop is Tullylease village, situated at one of the most northerly points of County Cork on the Limerick border. There are many large 'fulachta fiadh' in the area and these cooking sites were in use at least 2000 years ago. Tullylease or Tulach Leis means "The Hill of the Huts", the name coming from an old Gaelic monastery founded here by Saint Berehert. A student of the monastery had to build himself a hut or "cillin" to live in, and most of the hill was covered by these little huts, hence the name. On the site of Berehert's Church the remains of a much later church stands, known locally as "The Abbey". Here there are a number of early Christian grave slabs - one slab with inscriptions in Latin and Greek and a reproduction of a cross from the book of Lindisfarne, is possibly the finest early christian grave slab in existence today. It is believed to have been erected to St. Berehert about the year 700 and there is great devotion to St. Berehert in the area. There are two holy wells near the abbey and these have been known for centuries as a great place for cures especially for eye complaints. TOP
Mullaghareirk Mountains
Follow the trail from Tullylease and you will reach Mullaghareirk Mountains. The visitor will find some of the wildest and most remote sections of County Cork, and various walks have been developed and signposted for your enjoyment. Largely planted with forestry the air is pure and clean and the presence of large lichens on the posts along the side of the road are proof of this. It is said that at one time a squirrel could cross this whole area without ever setting foot on the ground. For more information please go to our walks section.
Killileigh
Turn left at the crossroads, as signposted, the trail brings you to Meelin village. However, if time allows, it will be well worth your while taking a quick diversion to the right. After a steep climb the road brings you to a T junction and you will find yourself at what is known as "The Top of Killileigh". From this point a most beautiful expanse of the 'Golden Vale' countryside stretches out before you. On a clear day you can see from the Galtee mountains to the Shannon and northwards to the Silvermines and to Limerick City in the north west.
Meelin
Backtrack to the route which takes you to Meelin Village. The name "Maoileann" means "A Round Bare Hill". It is called after a Celtic goddess called 'Moylin' or 'Meelin'. She was being forced into marriage against her will and fled to Meelin and helped by local people. When her father sent soldiers to capture her she flew from Moylans Rock to the Blessed Well in Ballinatona and disappeared. The well is composed of two sandstone slabs. There is a print of a comb on a rock there, and if you visit this rock you are expected to leave a small coin between the stone slabs or else risk breaking a leg descending the hill!! Turning right at the village you travel to Rockchapel. You will notice vast stretches of open bogland and if you are lucky you will see the bustle of activity associated with cutting turf. Turf is cut in the local bogs from March onwards. TOP
Rockchapel
Rockchapel Village is built in the upper waters of the River Feale. It got its name from a mass rock that was located there in penal times. Traditional music is very much alive in this rural village with regular seisiuns held in the Bruach Na Carraige centre. Leaving Rockchapel you will follow the trail and turn left at "Thado's Cross". As you walk along this road notice the limekiln on the left hand side. This is one of perhaps hundreds which are scattered throughout Duhallow. In rural Ireland some years back the limekiln was the main source of producing fertilisers and one existed on almost every farm. TOP
Taur
Soon you reach Taur mountain or the "Bacaura" which is one of the highest points of the area. If you wish to climb to the top you will be rewarded with a splendid view encompassing four Counties of Munster. The remains of monoliths, gallains, soutterains, pillar stones, a stone circle, a fort and other relics indicate that Taur mountain was of very great prehistoric importance. It is crowned by a cairn (a heap of stones covering a grave) - this, combined with the unique position of the cairn itself, indicates that the person buried there must have been of standing and importance - a king or chieftain perhaps.
Taur was associated with the festival of Lunasa, an old pagan feast which was celebrated on August 1st every year to ensure a fruitful harvest. Until recently, at the end of July, young and old went to Glaundine on the Bacaura to pick black whorts or fraochans which grow on the mountain side. This explains the name Taur as it stands for "A Hill Where People Assembled". TOP
Ballydesmond
The descent from Taur shows splendid views of Duhallow. At the end of the road turn right in the direction of Ballydesmond village, which is situated on the banks of the Blackwater, in the foothills of the Mullaghareirk Mountains, forming the boundary between counties Cork and Kerry. It is a thriving rural community, and until 1933 the village was known as King Williamstown. The village was built in 1832 in the hope it would become a resting place for passing traders travelling to and from Cork city.
Meenganine
This area can be found 6kms north of the village, where the Blackwater rises and is celebrated for providing a hiding place for Gearoid Iarla, the fugitive Earl of Desmond in 1558. There are no signs of his hideout today but a local townland "Reidhlan an Iarla" or "The Plain of the Earl's House" is called after him. It is also in this area that you will find the Source of the Blackwater where a new walk has been recently opened. Ballydesmond has vast richness in traditional music, song and dance. TOP
Kiskeam
The origin of Kiskeam village and its name are now lost to history - "Coisceam na Cailli" can be translated as the footstep of the oldhag or the footstep of the old nun. There are folk traditions to support both views.
Boherbue
The village sprang into existence in the mid 19th century when the new road from Cork to Kerry was built. Today Boherbue is a clean colourful village which continues to thrive and grow. TOP
Dromagh Castle
The castle of the O'Keeffes at Dromagh is the oldest castle in Duhallow which has withstood the ravages of time and war. After 1651 the castle was owned by the Leader family and burned by local volunteers during the War of Independence 1920-1921. It is now in the ownership of the O'Leary family. TOP
Cullen
The village can be described as a corner of Sliabh Luachra. There are a number of historic sites in the parish including Duarigle Castle and St. Laitiaran's Well. It is said that many people have been cured at the well by making the rounds and washing the affected parts with the water from the well. TOP
Knocknagree
Knocknagree village is recognised as the capital of Sliabh Luachra and traditional Irish music and set dancing, not only in these parts but indeed in Ireland. Knocknagree village and the greater Sliabh Luachra has always been known for its way of life - its poets, pipers and fiddlers, its customs, gatherings, humour and sadness. Knocknagree in its own right was a town with a very old tradition of fairs and markets and all the associated activities. The village is highly recommended for liquid refreshments and at one time boasted 14 public houses, many of which still serve the village. TOP
Rathmore
This town is next stop on your trail and is in County Kerry. Rathmore's growth was boosted by the opening of a creamery in the early years of the 20th century and the coming of Cadburys, a chocolate crumb factory in the 1940's. The last public hanging in Ireland is reputed to have taken place in August 1822 at Shinnagh Cross at the eastern end of the village. The landscape of Sliabh Luachra is dominated by twin breast shaped mountains, dignified, noble and beautiful, these are known as The Paps (Dha Chic Danann). Turn left off the road at the signpost marked "Shrone" and proceed for approx. 3km until you reach a crossroads. The road opposite leads to an ancient settlement called the "City". The access road is rather narrow so it is advisable to walk.
The City
Here at the foothills of the beautiful Paps is the site of perhaps the oldest uninterrupted religious ceremony in Europe. This place is known locally as The City or to give its correct title "Cromleach Cathair Craobh Dearg" meaning the Fort of the Red Claw. It was a place of pagan worship with religious connections to this very day. Up to 100 years ago it was customary to bring ailing cattle here on May Eve and leave them overnight to be cured or benefited. The city shrine was sacred to Dana, the mother of gods to whom the mountain back of the city is dedicated. Old historians have satisfied themselves that Cathair Craobh Dearg was among the first places in Ireland to be settled. People still go there during May to do the 'rounds' - pleading for good crops and herds. At one time here, there was a large stone circle which bore traces of Ogham writing and a number of beehive cells. Outside the western wall is a holy well. The city is quaint and interesting and well worth a visit. If you have time you should make your way to Shrone Lake nearby, being set in the midst of rock and is magnificent on a clear day.
Caherbarnagh/Kilmeedy
The trail takes you along by Caherbarnagh, a beautiful hillside townland farmed in song and story. Its beautiful purple mountain is a delight to view on a sunny afternoon in late summer when the purple heather is in bloom and the last rays of the sinking sun rest on the slopes of this majestic mountain. The road winds its way eastwards to Croohigs Cross where you turn south thorugh the townlands of Kippagh and Ballydaly to a beautiful scenic view on top of the hill, and from here the road winds along the slope of Claragh Mountain towards the Millstreet-Macroom road at Kilmeedy. St. Ita established her church at Cill M'ida early in the 6th century. As you approach the junction of the road you will see Kilmeedy Castle on your right. This castle was built in 1436 as a military stronghold to command the wild mountain pass between Cork and Kerry. TOP
Millstreet
The trail then turns left towards Millstreet town. In the shadows of Claragh Mountain, Millstreet and its surrounds are worth exlporing. Millstreet is thought to be about 250 years old, and you will discover many fascinating buildings and archaelogical sites. Each March and September horse fairs are held which mirrors the old fairdays of wheeling and dealing. Millstreet, already famous for its equestrian centre and two international horse shows each year, was shot to fame in 1993 when hosting the 38th European Song Contest.
Drishane Castle
The castle was built by the McCarthys between 1436 and 1450, and commands a beautiful view of the chain of mountains, starting with Claragh, which run an interrupted line to Killarney. The Wallis family took over the castle and lands in 1719 but when in 1900 the era of landlords came to an end, the Wallis family sold the estate. In 1990 the Sisters of Infant Jesus bought it from its owner for a girls boarding school until its clousure in 1992.
Tubrid Well
Tubrid Well is about one mile west of Millstreet and is probably the best known well in the area and reputed to be the second largest in Britain and Ireland. It is about 40ft in diameter and dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Millstreet Museum
The museum is located in the Carnegie Hall, near the Town Park. Established in 1978 it carried an extensive range of slides, photos, and audio and video tapes of recent events and is well worth a visit. TOP
Knocknakilla Stone Circle
Continuing the trail south of Millstreet in the direction of Cloughboola, along the quiet country road towards Musheramore you will see Claragh Mountain on your right. In Knocknakilla on the slope of Musheramore is the 3500 year old Knocknakilla Stone Circle, only a few stones are left standing on the isolated hilltop but still retains its mystery.
Millstreet Country Park
A surprise is the ultimate treat for lovers of the outdoors as from the slopes of Knocknakilla you can see the higher slopes of Musheramore Mountain as they plummet to 183m below the valley. This is Millstreet Country Park, a microcosm of all that is precious to heritage lovers of all ages, this 200 hectare park is yours to explore and enjoy. Moorlands, managed wetlands all complete in spectacle and beauty will vie for your attention with rich meadows, tumbling rivers, lakes, extensive flora and fauna, you may travel miles of living trails and enjoy the spectacle of 700 red deer silhouetted against ancient stone circles.
St. Johns Well
This well is located at the base of Mushera mountain - it is a pagan site now Christianised with Naomh Eoin, a local 6th century saint. The station of the cross here are most unique, having been crafted in stone by local craftsmen in 1982.
The Kerrymans Table
Leave the main route for a few minutes and turn right at the crossroads. On the road from Millstreet to Rylane is a large stone on the left hand side of the road which was used long ago by carters from Kerry travelling to Cork with cargoes of butter for export. They used to shop here to eat, thus getting its name 'The Kerrymans Table'. Roads like this one were made at the time of the famine.
Kilcorney
After your rest join the trail again and you will travel in the direction of Kilcorney which was always renowned for its Feis. The old creamery in Kilcorney was built in 1915. TOP
Lyre
The next village you will meet is Lyre. The Catholic Church was opened on Christmas Day 1857. The original Lyre National School was built in 1844 before the great famine, and close to the centre the church and cemetery are situated. Many famous people are buried in the cemetery, one being Denis Horgan, world champion weight thrower.
Nadd
The village of Nadd is in the foothills of the Boggeragh Mountains, and the hills surrounding the village are famous as a habitat for the Irish Red Grouse. From the hills there is a panoramic view of the Barony of Duhallow and there is a beautiful Celtic Cross erected in Nadd to commemorate four local volunteers who were shot in March 1921. The Glen river which flows through Nadd rises in the townland of Inchimay about three miles south of the village and is famous for its trout. There are many beautiful walks in the area - quiet country roads and lanes, hills, boglands and forestry.
Donoughmore
A diversion of approximately 16 kms at this point will bring you to Donoughmore Village, which is bordered on one side by Boggeragh Mountains and by the Lee Valley on the other. Places of interest include St. Laghteen's Holy Well and a mass famine grave. TOP
Laharn
Another quick diversion from Nadd will take you to Laharn Cross, an area famed for its crossroads dancing since the early 1900s. Dancing takes place here each Sunday night throughout the summer months. TOP
Banteer
Banteer is noted for its famous sports meetings and has produced some of the most famous sportsmen in history. Banteer is O'Callaghan country whose chief residence was in Clonmeen Castle. Taking a right turn at Banteer church brings you to Clonmeen, along the banks of the River Blackwater. TOP
Castlemagner
Here you cross the main Mallow-Killarney Road, proceeding right and taking the first turn on your left. Following the signposts, turning left at Ardline Bridge to Castlemagner village. Nearby stands what remains of Castlemagner Castle. Although inhabited until 1971, the castle now stands in ruins. It is 56ft. high, flanked with a round tower, with a battery and a dwelling house, built on a rock hanging over a stream of water known as "Ketragh".
Knocknanuss
Situated 1.5 miles to the north of Castlemagner is the townland of Knocknanuss where one of the most decisive battles of the Confederate War (1642-1652) was fought on Saturday 13th November 1647. On this day in 1647 the Cromwellian forces under Lord Inchiquin marched out from Mallow while the confederates marched from Kanturk. They met in battle at Knocknanuss and the Confederates suffered a crushing defeat. TOP
Cecilstown
You can wander from the trail to nearby Cecilstown. Six miles south of the village you will find Lohort Castle, incorporating the 15th century tower of a MacDonagh MacCarthy stronghold. It is very solidly constructed with walls 3m wide at the base, tapering to 2m at the top. This fortress was originally 7 storeys high, 5 of which were destroyed by fire in 1922. Nevertheless it is something of a rarity in that it is still inhabited. According to tradition it was built in the reign of King John. TOP
Ballyheen Piers
About 3miles from Kilbrin on the Kanturk road you will notice two piers, 6m high and 80m apart on the left hand side of the road. These are the much talked about Ballyheen Piers. On top of each pier was a stone globe. They were built as the outer piers of an entrance to Rockfield House about 1750. Edward Badham Thornhill, landlord of Ballyheen had arranged to build a residence for his daughter there, but she had other ideas. She fell in love with the coachman and after a run away marriage lost all rights to Ballyheen Estate. The mansion was never built. TOP
Kanturk
The next place you will reach is the largest town in Duhallow, Kanturk. Kanturk derives its name from the irish "Ceann Tuirc" meaning "The Head of the Boar". Ireland has many place names and folk traditions concerning the wild boar and black pig. The cult of the pig probably originated in India and over the generations made its way to this end of the earth. This attractive town lies at the confluence of the Rivers Allow and Dalua, which are both bridged here. It developed its present form in the 18th century under the ownership of the Earl of Egmont, whose family was given the town after the rebellion of 1641. The town is noteworthy for its substantial houses and air of prosperity. If you have time to spare you can enjoy some welcome refreshements and there are a number of places of interest for the visitor. There once existed 3 flour mills in Kanturk and being sited so close to the rivers and in close proximity to a third, it was a natural location for a water mill. In the final decade of the last century, the sweet manufacturers, Messrs. Cleeves, set up a condensed milk factory here, which was taken over in 1928 by a dairy company and is now trading as Kanturk Dairy Coop.
You cannot leave without visiting Kanturk Castle. This is one of the largest and finest castles ever undertaken by a Gaelic Chieftain. The castle was undertaken by either Desmond MacOwen MacCarthy, or by Donaugh MacCormac MacCarthy during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Much local legend surrounds the castle and the reasons why it wasnt finished. The castle is owned by the English National Trust but is set on a 1000 year lease to An Taisce. If you have time take a walk to the townland of Garraveasoge, near Kanturk Golf Club, where scores of victims of the famine were buried in a common grave in 1847 and is marked with a small celtic cross. TOP
Newmarket
The next visit is the town of Newmarket. Newmarket was founded in the 17th century and is a busy market town. The Island Wood is worth a visit before leaving Newmarket. Located within the wood is the "Twelve Apostles" tree, so called because of the twelve trunks growing from the main trunk. The River Dalua flows through the wood which is a haven of beauty and peace. The James O'Keeffe Memorial Institute is evidence of the Aldworths who arrived in Newmarket in 1615. Of early Georgian design, the house was built in 1725 for the Aldworth family. It was old in 1927 to an order of nuns, who ran a school there until 1973. The Institute is now dedicated to rural development and training through IRD Duhallow. TOP
Lismire
The final stop on the Duhallow Trail is to head north of Newmarket to the village of Lismire. The area has a deep sense of history with Kilmacow Cemetery located towards the east of the village. This was the site of a 6th century religious settlement, a church, holy well and possibly underground chambers. It is also in the site of an earlier ring fort. TOP
**IRD Duhallow would like to thank Seán Radley for his assistance
in the creation of this page**
